![]() Rocha’s and Green’s creations were also in keeping with their own established vocabularies, but where Rocha’s designs (most of which weren’t true outerwear, but ready-to-wear) were ineffably light, Green’s felt heavy. Piccioli’s offering could attract the Valentino client, Green’s the experimental menswear shopper, and so on down the line. Ruffini’s other aim here, equally important, is to expand the little rooster’s reach with collections that target specific niches. Moncler is a kind of winter uniform in certain precincts, a status symbol that earned its status thanks in part to its functionality, but also to its coding-that red, white, and blue rooster logo patch is an effective means of messaging. The Gamme Rouge and Gamme Bleu shows, with collections designed by Giambattista Valli and Thom Browne respectively, tended to come off as expensive branding exercises: entertaining to attend, but not necessarily reliable sources of viable outerwear anywhere near the level of the main range. The launch effectively puts an end to the company’s former structure. The Genius Project’s aim is to tap into that. The simultaneous rise of social media and streetwear’s “drop” phenomenon have trained a generation of shoppers to consume differently. Consisting of eight unique collections to be rolled out one at a time on a monthly basis, it’s a timely attempt on Ruffini’s part to address shifting buying patterns. Let’s just say Ruffini doesn’t think small. In an era of mega fashion collaborations, this is the mega-est, with a designer roster that includes Pierpaolo Piccioli, Simone Rocha, and Craig Green, among others. ![]() Breaking years of tradition-Gucci is typically the Milan opener-Remo Ruffini staged the relaunch of his Moncler brand with something he’s boldly named the Genius Group. ![]() Milan fashion week kicked off a night earlier than usual this season. ![]()
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